End of Time Warp; Leap Makes Quantum Leap

As reported by the Isla Mujeres Tortugas :

After 79 days in a lightning induced time warp Leap and her crew are setting sail on Thursday 10/31 at 0600.

Leap feels quantum physics interceded rousing the universe into releasing her into the capable hands of her Captain and Co-Captain, Charlie and Karen, so that they can continue on their adventure exploring the Western Caribbean.

Charlie and Karen said their goodbyes to Isla Mujeres and El Milagro Marina.

If you want to travel along with us you can follow us at: https://share.delorme.com/KarenCharlesNielsen#

If you use the aerial view you should be able to see the beautiful blue water of the reefs we hope to visit along the way.

Cozumel While We Wait

While we were waiting for the autopilot to show up the first time, we took a sailing trip south from Isla Mujeres to Cozumel. The water there is beautiful, but the anchorage near town on the western shore was rough, really rough, due to winds and seas, but mostly due to relentless boat traffic - in particular passenger ferries. The anchorage on the north end of the island would have been quieter as far as boat traffic but with the wind direction it would have been rougher.

In the end we decided to stay near the town, San Miguel and take the dinghy ashore for sightseeing. It is a small town but bigger than the town on Isla Mujeres  with the usual hawkers and tourist shops laden with trinkets galore catering to the passengers on the cruise ships. However,we did come across a very nice bar restaurant in town called Wet Wendy's, where we imbibed on margaritas made with their homemade tequila, which in this case means; it is made locally, but finishes its aging at Wet Wendy's. 

They also have wifi which is very handy for us cruisers.

One day we rented a scooter and headed out with the snorkeling gear to visit some reefs.

Alas, we did not find much for shallow reefs it was more like rock gardens. 

We swam out across the rock gardens from the beach and had a pleasant snorkel but did not see many fish and little in the way of live coral, hard or soft varieties. While hiking back to the scooter we observed many turtle nesting sites. As we neared our dive bag an officer approached us on a dirt bike ( did we mention this was a rutty dirt trail we went out on?) warning us that we should not leave the scooter and dive bag unattended, as it could get stolen. There wasn't another soul around but we took his words at face value pledging to be more careful. We obviously could not take our gear with us snorkeling, so then what does one do?  

Well....get back on the scooter and head to the highest point on the island where one can find refreshments.

Coconuts Bar and Grill is reported to be on a 300 ft high bluff. We think its probably more like 100' high, as you can see from the following pictures.

Nonetheless, it was a beautiful view as we sat under the umbrella and had a margarita.

We finished out the day circumnavigating the island on the scooter. We learned that the signs designating scooter/bike path don't mean a thing, as you can meet cars, trucks and even buses on the path. So as always, pay attention while in Mexico.

The water is gorgeous in Cozumel.  The deeper reefs on the south end of the island are part of a National Park. They start around 40 ft deep and go down past sport diving limits. They may be gorgeous and worth paying the park fee, dive boat and dive gear rental fees but not for us. We were hoping for readily accessible snorkeling and that was not the case.  It is illegal to anchor in the park and it was over 14 miles by dinghy so the only way to access the one reported good snorkel site is to sign up for a charter and wear a stupid orange life jacket while trying to snorkel. No thanks.

The afternoon before we wanted to head back north to Isla Mujeres there was a storm standing along the mainland.

Fortunately it stayed on the mainland and we were grateful for that! There were many storms similar to this in the area while we were there. That was another reason for the rough anchorage and our decision not to travel further south as originally planned.

There is no joy in Isla, the Autopilot has struck out

After weeks and weeks of waiting and struggling, the long awaited, vaunted autopilot finally arrived. With great optimism and enthusiasm we tackled the various functions, hardware installation and connections. Following a manual that seemed vague at times we nonetheless were ready to run the first test; a critical step in directing the autopilot to steer the proper course, and it failed. We double checked the wiring, we tried the wiring diagram for the opposite tack setting. It failed. We tried a replacement piece of hardware, it failed. Lacking additional time we sent the control unit back with our friend to have it returned to the manufacturer promptly in an attempt to get it sent back to us promptly. Promptly in this case means a week of shipping in either direction. Not to mention the time it will be in the factory. 

Had we decided to plant a crop of coconuts on deck - and for as long as this auto pilot replacement has taken - we could already have harvested a nice crop. This bizzare reflection may have been instigated by the longing for better fruits and vegatables. The low quality, poor selection available on this coast is staggering. Our visits to the West coast yielded a totally different experience. The Yucatan coast is a dead zone from an agricultural perspective and the Mexicans are making it so on an aquatic basis as well. Overfishing and polluted runoff, are decimating reefs and fish stocks. Algae in the bay where we are anchored, rivals most fresh water lakes. It is the thick, slimy,gooey green stuff that strangles native species and robs the environment of oxygen. I for one never expected to find this here. Costal development is painfully obvious. It is unbelievable what has been done to this coastline in the past 50 years. Even the areas I think I might enjoy, the National Parks, are off limits to cruisers. No anchoring in the aquatic parks makes it impossible for cruisers to access. Ones only avenue is to go on a charter boat, run by Mexicans, of course, and pay their fees. While not exorbitant, still pricey to go snorkling  ($160.00 if Karen and I wanted to spend a few minutes with whale sharks, for instance) or visit a bird sanctuary (unclear but a fee per person around $60/day plus another cruising permit). Our trip to Tulum was aborted in part to bad weather(no wind) and in part to the loss I would feel - having been in Tulum in 1973 -  in trying to recreate an experience that can no longer exist. Why try? Why face another disappointment? 

I'm not sure there is any force holding us in Isla, but there seems to be. Something doesn't want us getting away. Why? What is it that keeps postponing our departure? Have we not accomplished what we were destined to do here? Big questions, not much for answers. It appears that we will have a couple more weeks to ponder our role. In the mean time, we live, as best we can. Andale', Charlie

As I watched Charlie's face yesterday, and our friend Chip working along side, it was pretty hard to take the disappointment we all shared when the auto pilot failed to function as it should have.

Another setback, and we wait and wait again.

I know some of you think, " Well, what better place to wait for parts?" And then there are some of you good Midwestern Scandinavian types thinking, " Well, it could be worse, ya sure ya betcha."

And it surely could have been worse. We could have lost Leap in the lightening strike as well as being injured ourselves so yes, we do count our blessings. 

What is it that makes us especially contemplative during times of disappointment and stress? Most would say it is the universe telling you to put the brakes on and slow down and evaluate. However, we already put the brakes on when we decided to take this sabbatical. So why are we having hurdles on sabbatical? Is it a test of our dedication to this dream? Or a window into what lies ahead?

If the oceans abundance is sorely diminished here what will it look like elsewhere? Are we to be witnesses, a voice for the ocean, and are we to hike up our bootstraps, or rather sandal straps and voyage on and report back what we find in the hopes that we and anyone else that may be interested can actually take action on what we find?

In that light, it is worth the voyage. We need to learn and will learn more about the western Caribbean as we sail along and we will report back all the highs and lows. 

For now we are thankful to be floating and grateful for all the wonderful people we have met along the way, especially grateful to our friend Chip, who has been an enormous help in getting our parts to us. Thank you Chip! (and to you too Lu, for sharing him)

On that note I say a good night and fair winds friends,

Karen

Smug night

Storm clouds building the night before.

First fingers of yet to be named Hurricane Karen

In the picture below you can see a large navy blue sailboat on the right at the end of a dock and next to that the bow of a sport fishing boat. Our slip is next to the sport fishing boat. We took these pictures the night before we went into the marina.

Another band of storms pass, listing us 15% to starboard. Wave wobbeled decks forcing imitation drunken steps fore and aft in our air conditioned cabin. Curtains of rain clawing at the seals. Yet we remain dry and smug. Smug because we left the mooring in time to avoid the uncomfortable evening at anchor and sought refuge in  El Milagro Marina. Arriving with time enough to plug in and start recharging batteries, tie off and adequately secure our craft against the 30 mph winds (originally predicted at 55mph) as the low pressure storm system plows through the region unleashing it's  temper on the island and the Yucatan. Smug because we will not endure the sleep deprived night that our comrades at anchor will face, checking to verify their anchors' hold.

A negative forecast with rain, high winds and big waves forced us to delay our sailing excursion down the coast, originally intended to kill time until the autopilot arrives. Could be as soon as the 11th of Oct. or later around the 25th of Oct. all depends on Alpha Marine Systems now. They are unable to accept credit cards and as such have thrown a major hurdle in the path of progress since they will not start repairs until full payment is received. We were unaware of that policy before we mailed them a check. Now we wait. Delivery options fade as time slides by. Our desired location to ride out hurricane season is far away, so storms like today will be endured, but unnecessary if we were not waiting on parts. 

Lighting strikes, equipment failures, insurance companies, banks, shipping dilemmas, uncooperative vendors, yikes. We thought we were going to unwind in paradise, boy were we wrong. Surviving stress du jour is more like it. Another band of storms blows through reminding us of all that has gone right today, like getting into the sheltering lee of this tropical resort with its palm fringed beach (and wifi). Not a bad place to be stranded, indeed!

To Have And To Hold....

Friday, September 20th marks 33 years my wife has had to put up with me and a wide variety of crazy ideas, some which have worked, others, not so much. We will be spending our anniversary in a location many people choose as an "Island Getaway". Although we are not overly impressed with our current location, we are happy to be spending it in sun and palm trees. While we got married in the vivid warm colors of fall, we feel equally at home in turquoise blue, sun-drenched green, fringed in undulating white.

Awaiting estimates for lightning damaged parts and an insurance settlement has kept us locked up here where we have readily available WiFi. What the heck did people do in our situation before Internet? It seems a nightmare even now with this modern convenience, however, in the past it must have meant a trip back to the states, a huge phone bill, or even the end of the journey. While we grouse about the travail, it is still the best situation we could hope for.

Some claim diamonds are a girls best friend but I think, under these circumstances, Karen would be overjoyed with a new autopilot for our anniversary. Don't I know how to show a girl a good time! And I will be expressly happy with a new alternator and regulator for the diesel. Things that are precious are definitely defined by circumstance. These items allow us a level of comfort that would be unavailable without them, and yet they are only a fraction of the toys one can acquire for a comfortable cruising boat. 

We have learned a lot in our short time afloat. Learning to live within our energy means. Learning to trust our instincts about weather. Learning how all our technology imbues us with a certain false sense of security ie: a gps failure in our electronic navigation program would put us right back to the 1800's navigationally speaking. No autopilot, which means we spend hours at the helm doing the mind-numbing task of steering. I know that is why we are here, to sail, but it is also to relax and reflect which is difficult when the compass is the focus, not the scenery.

Our attempts to make art have been overshadowed by constant repairs. We have given much thought to our next projects but implementing them is still second fiddle to repairs, foraging food, and a smattering of socializing. Finding ideas is not as problematic as finding time. The  dubious luxury of unemployment, not enough time to do everything. Enough for now. Off to the hardware store to buy wire to rewire my stern light. See what I mean! 

Sea Turtle Release Isla Mujeres 9/14/13

Last night we went to the beach on the north end of Isla Mujeres to witness a turtle release of several thousand tiny little baby turtles. The eggs are protected here and a group from Centro Investigaciones Pesqueras harvests the eggs and moves them to protected areas to hatch. Then they gather up the new hatchlings and when they reach about one week of age they are released on several protected beaches. Releases are scheduled between May and October, usually at dark, so as to protect the hatchlings from birds. Several people attend  -  locals and tourists - and a few turles are handed out in cups to be handled and released. Children bring their sand pails and are allowed to have a few of their own to release. 

It was hard to get pictures as the instructions were to not use flash because it confuses the baby turtles. Also, the jostling for position to get a view was difficult. I moved into the water and then was jostled by the waves so first two pictures are out of focus. And, our camera has decided to stop working, so I am using my old cell phone.

Beach Gathering

You can see the baskets on the beach and they are full of turtles all clamoring to get out.

All the dark spots are turtles booking for the ocean. We are not supposed to help them and that is hard.

We stayed until it was quite dark watching for the stragglers, exhausted from trying to get through the surf. We couldn't help but pick up a few and put them beyond the surf line.

Below - Charlie helping and picture is very dark as I do not want to use a flash.

Southern Tip on Isla Mujeres

Sunday 9/1 we biked to the summit of the Yucatan Penninsula, a whopping 50 feet above sea level.

Our boat neighbor Scott acted as tour guide. We rode through the original village established in the early 1600's where the locals live, on our way to the southern tip, Punta Sur. We would like to go back to the village another day and spend more time, as there were some scintillating aromas wafting from some very nice restaurants. The village is more peaceful than being in Isla Mujeres Centro which is the tourist end of the island where the various ferry companies drop off visitors from Cancun.

From the marina to Punta Sur was a little over 3 miles riding the western road.  We  visited the Parque Escultorico, a sculpture park located on the cliff. The day was overcast but made for a nicer ride than a day of full sun. After leaving Punta Sur we rode back along the east road and enjoyed the scenery, and a swim on one of the beaches. It is on this road that the shell house is located.

The sculptures in the park are from many artists around the world and have weathered over time making them all the more interesting, yet in some cases crumbling beyond recognition, as the salt air has contributed its own artistic flourish.

We can all practice our Spanish translation skills.

The pictures below were taken as we wandered the paths through the garden.

As we were walking the path along the waters edge I photographed the rock formations and some of the flora and fauna clinging to the cliff face.

You can see the edge of the brick path in this photo.

Back to the top.  

A simple shade cover with log  bench for peaceful contemplation

Our view where we stopped for refreshments.

Charlie and Scott

The shell house. Hard to photograph due to trees and privacy fence.